Heurtault – The Passionate Umbrella-Maker

The pug dog has slipped underneath. A large black Alsatian lies on top, and a dragonhead snakes its way between the other figures. The creatures lie in wait for their cue – sometimes for years. Yet, one day Michel Heurtault will reach in and find the exact animal head he needs to perfect his current umbrella design. The Parisian artisan produces his creations in the traditional manner: by hand. He is specialized in old, or to be more exact, vintage umbrellas. "From the 18th century to 1960, I can restore any single model." At the Parasolerie Heurtault, a broken vintage umbrella is skillfully restored to its former glory down to the last detail – using fabrics and frames from days of yore.

If the umbrella maker does not have the historical fabric available, he won’t accept an order. Yet, this is a highly unlikely scenario: a glance in the basement of his atelier-shop in the 12th arrondissement offers sufficient proof that there are enough spare parts and umbrella frames stored there for several centuries to come. Resembling an oversized treasure trove, the lower floor is lined with metal racks where cartons are stacked on top of each other. The boxes conceal a wealth of umbrella handles in the shape of dogs, cats, horses, and birds along with eyes to match each animal.

A little further down, the boxes overflow with walking sticks, along with bolts of fabric, lengths of lace, and antique embroideries. Farther on, there are containers filled with approximately three to four thousand complete, yet broken umbrellas. Each piece is carefully packed in silk paper and sorted by decade. Bare umbrella frames made of whalebone or metal hang closely bunched on the walls.

The best material from earlier times

The priceless eclectic collection of silk, linen, precious woods, ivory, and Bakelite are the result of innumerable visits to flea markets and auctions. Michel Heurtault has been collecting umbrella paraphernalia for 25 years. Every time an umbrella manufacturer closes down, he goes to see whether he can utilize any of their stock. Exactly four umbrella manufacturers still exist in France today. "But don't fool yourself. About 90% of their umbrellas are prefabricated in China," the wiry man in his mid-forties exclaims and rolls his large brown eyes in Gallic dismay. The cheap umbrellas imported from Asia on sale at every corner nowadays are a complete outrage in the artisan's opinion. "You open them once, and they're already broken. About 15 million umbrellas are thrown away in France annually. And because you can't recycle them, they get burned and that causes pollution!"

That is why, even from a plain ecological point of view, it's a good idea to look in on Heurtault's in the arcades beneath a discontinued elevated subway line.

His handcrafted gems made from tried and tested materials not only last 20 to 30 years, they're also a great deal more attractive than products mass-produced by the industrial competition. The small pink-walled premises have umbrellas for each type of weather and every occasion of offer: rain or shine, weddings, historical movies, or even a fashion show.... Their bestsellers, however, are men’s umbrellas.

Even parasols seem to be making a comeback, the entrepreneur states optimistically. "We have lots of Asian and Australian customers who prefer to avoid the sun. And don't forget the ladies who have undergone cosmetic surgery. They have to avoid the sun because their skin is very delicate." The slender Frenchman whirls around his atelier to show us one umbrella after the other. "Just listen to the rustle of the silk taffeta when you open the umbrella." Or here: "This umbrella shaft from the 1900s hides a powder puff inside! Oh, and look here, made in 1910, out of white silk. It's lined and has feathers that bounce when you walk." Michel Heurtault takes a childlike delight in his treasures. At a guess, he knows the details of 38,000 models by heart. He can tell at a glance whether an umbrella was produced in 1920 or 1921. "In 1920, the umbrella shafts were straightened with steam and made out of one piece. The canopy's arc was rounded. After that, in 1921, the canopy became flatter and the shafts were reinforced with a handle. The tops also became much larger." To corroborate his description, he hurries to the back of the workshop and returns with the corresponding yearbook of the magazine "La Mode Illustrée." He has gone over the books countless times and knows them by heart. All of them.

The passionate umbrella-maker

Driven by a strong inner urge, Michel Heurtault taught himself the stupendous amount he knows about umbrellas as well as the techniques required to restore vintage umbrellas.

"I dissected lots of umbrellas, studied them and put them back together again. Until I got it right."

The effort has obviously paid off as today his skills are considered to be one-of-a-kind. And word has gotten around. After just one year, the establishment founded at the end of 2008 was invited to join the ranks of the "Grands Atelier de France." A few months later, the Ministry of Economy bestowed the high honor of "Patrimoine Vivant," an award for excellence, upon the two-person establishment. For 2013, the autodidact who daily spends ten hours or more in his workshop already has his eye on the next prize. "Everybody's been telling me that I should apply for the title of "Maitre d'Art." That is the highest title you can achieve as an artisan in France. However, in order to gain it, I have to speak in front of a panel. I find the whole idea incredibly stressful." He especially objects to the notion that others have the power to decide whether or not he merits the title.

Being an umbrella maker is already his fourth profession, the small establishment his third enterprise. The offspring of a traditional military family in Toulon, he first trained to be a cook, then did an apprenticeship as a tailor, and went to Paris where he specialized in making theater and movie costumes along with tailoring corsets for Dior. "I was very successful and earned well, but I wanted to start something of my own." And so he started renting out historical costumes, including personalized advice to customers. Soon he was swamped by orders, worked day and night, until one fine day he decided to "destroy the company." He gave away his treasured costumes until none was left. Then, he started up as an independent stylist for the very well-off. "I traveled a lot and it was a fabulous lifestyle. But I began to notice that it was really a gilded cage, and I wanted to be free." In the middle of those unsettled days, Yves Saint Laurent asked him to produce an umbrella from him.

Together with his old friend, certified financial consultant Jean-Yves Thibert, he started a small business under the arches of the discontinued metro bridge. And to him, it still feels like a start-up. In 2012 they were in the black for the first time, they have an excellent reputation, and the market outlook is promising. Globally there’s not a single competitor that can boast their level of perfection – unless his apprentice, Andrea, who will soon be finished, leaves him. "Of course, he could go somewhere else, but he'll never find a nicer boss than me," his employers says with a mischievous grin. The order book is satisfyingly full for the next few years. Currently they’re focusing on expanding their own line of umbrellas. "When I started, I hadn't even considered designing my own collection." Today over half of our turnover derives from these models.

The prices for a new creation start at 250 euros and can go as high as 10,000 euros for a hand-embroidered wedding umbrella.

Marketing without a budget, but with ideas

The business partnership is putting a lot of hope in the movie industry. The tiny, crowded atelier in the Avenue Daumesnil harbors dreams of Hollywood and Bollywood. In fact, a first step in that direction has already been taken. "Our umbrellas appear in the new Woody Allen movie that is being shot in the south of France." Previous appearances on the widescreen include the French movie "Farewell, my Queen" with Diane Kruger and the Luc Besson comedy "The Extraordinary Adventures of Adèle Blanc-Sec". Details about these and other prominent appearances and references to their numerous awards can be found on their elaborate website. The online presence is about to receive a major overhaul in order to convey more about the know-how involved, the value of artisanal products and Michel Heurtault's enthusiasm and historical knowledge about his products. Entirely in line with the founder's credo: "You have to know the past extremely well in order to prepare for the future."